Different Kinds of Zari Work

Zari work has been a staple in Indian Textile Arts for centuries with its origins tracing back to the Vedic period. The art of creating intricate patterns using Gold and Silver Threads is known as Zari and it has evolved over time leading to various types of Zari work that are used in Modern Day Textiles Particularly in Garments like Sarees.

Most Prominent kinds of Zari work

Zardozi

Zardozi is perhaps the Most luxurious and elaborate form of Zari work. It uses a combination of Gold Threads, Spangles, Beads, Seed Pearls, wire, and Gota to create intricate patterns on heavy fabrics like Silk, Velvet, and satin. This form of embroidery is typically used to embellish Wedding Outfits. Some of the common stitches used in Zardozi include Salma-Sitara, Gijai, Badla, Katori, and various Seed Pearls.

Kamdani

Kamdani is a lighter form of Needlework compared to Zardozi. It is usually done on lighter fabrics such as Scarves, Veils, and Caps using flattened wire. The technique involves pressing the Wire down with the stitching which produces a Satin Stitch effect. The result is a glittering appearance known as Hazara Butti or "Thousand Lights."

Mina Work

Mina work is a form of Zari that closely resembles Enamel work. The embroidery is executed in Gold creating a rich and vibrant appearance that is often used in combination with other forms of Zari to create elaborate designs.

Kataoki Bel

Kataoki Bel is a border pattern made on stiff Canvas where the entire surface is filled with Sequin Edging. A variation of this border technique involves Lace made on Net fabric which is then filled with Zari Stitches and Spangles adding a shimmering effect to the edges of Garments.

Mukaish

Mukaish is one of the oldest styles of Zari work characterized by the use of Silver Wire or Badla. The Wire itself acts as the needle piercing the fabric to create various designs. Mukaish is also known as Fardi ka Kaam in Lucknow while in Gujarat and Maharashtra it is referred to as Badla. In Mukaish, tiny dot patterns are created by the Wire while in Kamdani the wire is worked into larger motifs.

Tilla or Marori Work

Tilla or Marori work involves stitching Gold thread directly onto the fabric’s surface using a needle. This type of Embroidery is often used in combination with other Zari techniques to create elaborate designs particularly in Traditional Garments.

Gota Work

Gota work is another popular form of Zari embroidery particularly in regions like Jaipur. In Gota work woven Gold Borders are cut into various shapes—such as Birds, Animals, and Human Figures and then appliqued onto the fabric.

These shapes are often further embellished with wires of Silver and Gold and surrounded by Colored Silks. A specialized technique within Gota work is Gota Tukdi where Gota is cut into specific shapes like Gamla (Flower Pot), Kairi (Mango), and Champak (Flower), and then appliqued onto the fabric.

Another variation is Gota Patti where tapes are folded into Rhomboid units called Patti or leaves and combined to create elaborate motifs sewn onto Garments.

Kinari Work

Kinari work is a variation of Zari embroidery where the embellishments are focused solely on the edges of the fabric often in the form of Tassels. This type of work is commonly used to add a finishing touch to Sarees and other Traditional Garments.

Types of Zari in Traditional Sarees

Zari work is also categorized based on the type of Threads used. The four primary types of Zari used in Banarasi Silk Sarees are:

Pure Zari 

Also known as Real Zari this type features a core made of degummed twisted Red or Yellow Mulberry silk Yarn over which Silver Lametta and Badla are wound. The silver threads are electroplated with Pure Gold to produce Gold Zari. As per the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), Pure Zari must contain at least 50% Silver and if it is Gold-Coated the Gold Content must be at least 0.5% of the material’s mass.

Tested Zari or Half Fine Zari 

This is an Imitation zari that mimics the appearance of Real Zari. In this type Copper Lametta is used instead of Silver and the Copper Wire is silver-Gilded. For Gold Zari the Tested zari is electroplated with a Gold Solution.

Powder Zari or Imitation Gold Zari

Similar to Tested Zari Powder zari involves powder Gilding instead of Gold Gilding using an Artificial Gold color powder to achieve the desired luster. However this type does not retain its shine for long and tends to blacken with use.

Plastic Zari 

In this type Plastic Thread is used as Lametta instead of Copper or Silver. Small thin Plastic Strips are superimposed in Gold or assorted colors creating a cheaper alternative that is marketed under various trade names like Rexor and Lurex.

Neem Zari

These Yarns are widely used in many branches of the Textile Industry including wide weaving, Narrow ribbons, Embroidery, Braids, Knitting, Twisting, Laces, and Inner Gimp Decoration.

Zari Work in Banaras Sarees

Banaras Sarees are either woven with Pure Zari or other varieties like Imitation, Powder and Plastic Zari. The choice of Zari significantly impacts the cost of the Saree. Pure Zari is the most expensive ranging from ₹10,000 to ₹13,000 per kilogram while Imitation Zari costs between ₹600 to ₹800 per kilogram.

Powder Zari is priced at ₹2000 per kilogram and Plastic Zari is the cheapest ranging from ₹350 to ₹500 per kilogram.

Modern Trends in Zari Work

In recent times the Zari market has seen a rise in the use of cheaper alternatives like Plastic and Imitation Zari driven by consumer demand for more affordable products. However the craft of Traditional Zari making continues to thrive in places like Banaras and Surat where Artisans innovate with newer types of Zari to enhance the aesthetics and value of the final product.

Zari work with its rich history and cultural significance remains an integral part of Indian Textile Arts. Whether used in elaborate Bridal Wear or more affordable everyday garments the art of Zari continues to captivate with its intricate designs and shimmering beauty.